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Indonesian and Malay home cooking from one wok line: sambal ground daily, coconut milk, charcoal satay out front.

Beef bones simmered overnight for the broth, baguettes baked twice a day, and herbs cut just before service.

Sichuan dumplings folded to order and a Cantonese steamer line, chilli oil steeped with twelve spices.

Chicken smoked over pimento wood in a split oil drum, the way Boston Bay does it.

Beef over quebracho embers, cut thick, with chimichurri ground by hand each morning.

Cold ceviche cut to order at the bar, with leche de tigre pressed the same morning.

Skewers turned over open wood fire and carried to the table until you turn the card red.

Dough left to rise for thirty-six hours, then sixty seconds in a wood oven built in Naples.

Standing-room tapas counter: blistered peppers, cast-iron prawns, and rice cooked to order in a wide pan.

Charcoal skewers and cold meze from a Naxos family kitchen, with oregano, lemon and olive oil on everything.